domingo, 20 de julho de 2014

New project- Alice Liddell Part 1




This is a try to document a costume from beginning to end.
I always photograph things a bit distorted and most of the time I was sitting so the perspective is really weird. Please forgive me for that. Other than that I think this time I got everything covered about this costume:)

This is a classic example that you always need to get the HD references because they offer a better insight on Alice's dress and materials. Especially the details on the pockets, apron etc... they are invisible in the games screenshots and promo materials.


I had some white poliester that I got on a deal and royal blue that was enough to make the dress and so this costume was born.
Great things about patterns is that they are versatile. The one I used was copied from a chemise. The only set back was it was bigger than me but still could be used.
Fabrics

I started by working with this

Materials


first I match both sides of the fabric
Temos de achar a a largura, dividir o tecido ao meio para ourela bater com ourela

than I pin it because fabric usually has its own free will

then cut both the ends of the fabric
uma vez que as ourelas não são necessárias é melhor cortar para não confundir quando estivermos a por o molde

trash you dont need

Bodice:

 Ok Alice blue dress deceives a bit in terms of fabric. The skirt is full and balloon sleeves eat triple the fabric of normal sleeves.
Also when I made her first version of London, the apron was really annoying to adjust. I decided that if I ever make another of her dresses I would sew the apron directly on the fabric so it would be one piece. Upon having this into consideration I couldn't put the zipper on the back like I usually do and had to do it in the sides.
Because both the front and back of the bodice have no cuts and to save fabric I found the center and then bend both sides in and this way I have to middles of the fabric.

fabric bend with two middles


How I placed the pattern

The way we place the pattern is very important. We need to follow the fabric grain and direction. In this case since the pieces I need to cut are halves I only need to place them in middles. Thinking ahead before cutting is also important to save fabric. In this case I need to first try this pattern on me an only later ill draw the circle skirt because of the measurements.
After finding the right placement and to make sure we are tracing correctly we need to press the paper and pin it. After we just use the chalk.









Final form

I use the big scissors to help secure the fabric
 Next we check with the help of the measuring tape if everything has the same size and if we didn't make any mistakes. Then we use the ariston to give the sewing allowance. Has a general guide we need 3cm but since this pattern was big on me I only gave 1.


Tip: Use different colors for the allowance.

after I cut
 Alright. Now we have our bodice pieces. Next step is to baste everything so we can try it on.
grab a needle and basting thread



 After trying it on I pinned the excess on myself, take it off and cut what i dont need.
Leftovers, it didnt look much but combining this would probably mean 5 cms loose on my body.


pieces result. 



after adjustments/before adjustments



 After it and because this is a very handy pattern that can be used to a lot of costumes I transfer it to paper.
new pattern that is your size and it didn't cost you anything

put it with your other patterns

if you have many dont forget to identify it 

Everything organized, happy cosplayer:)

Like I said  a few paragraphs before the I took advantage of the princess seams to directly insert the apron.






when you have a full bust or in necklines because of the natural curves always cut the allowance to make the seams flat

front

back




saddle stitching




Skirt:

or skirts if you please.

I made two full skirts, one for the petticoat other for the dress. Its my personal choice to make such full skirts.
They were supposed to be just one cupcake but since I could use a petticoat for other costumes I decided to make the white skirt separate from the dress.

measuring myself from waist to knee

saia de godés

blue skirt serves as a pattern for petti

my two gigantic full skirts

adding ribbon to Alice inder skirt

without iron

after iron


both combined.
Sleeves:


This took almost five hours to make from patterning to finish but thank God I was resilient with them because I love the way they ended up.

Balloon sleeves have kind of a different science to them depending on the fabric you use and effect you want.
I didnt want sober sleeves but really poofy ones. I made a rough pattern and tested it on some fabric I found. i'm a bit sad that I didnt photograph all of the try outs I had. it took me tree times always cutting the fabric until I got my cute sleeves.

sleeve pattern

Final result

diference between the pattern I started with on paper and the final and on fabric

Passing the pattern to paper

adding information and seam allowance

cutting 

again keep put your pattern on the right place! you will need it again!

my cute sleeves

making bias tape to finish the edges


interfacing it





after this I sewed everything together

decorating the skirts with saddle stitching
 the pockets were drafted, interfaced and machine embroidered.
Jupiter was alright but Venus ended up really distorted because of the circle>-< I remade them and painted them instead.
pockets

pencil drawing the symbols

Embroidering finished; I didnt like the final result

after ironing they still looked bad!!!

making new pockets
part 1- end

3 comentários:

  1. Estou a adorar!! *O* Mal posso esperar por ver o resto!!

    ResponderExcluir
    Respostas
    1. Obrigada Ju, devo de acabar a vorpal blade esta semana e depois vou por o resto:)

      Excluir
    2. Can't wait! *O* Aposto que vai ficar lindo! *O*

      Excluir